Day four - 29th May, Sunday
It was a nice & crisp morning in Interlaken and we went down for breakfast at the usual hour. Breakfast was the usual affair of a selection of juices, a selection of breads, croissants & rolls, some fruits and a coffee or tea. We would usually get through one of each variety, to keep us going till the late morning. So far on this trip food had not been a problem. Tourists, like an army, march on their stomachs and nothing can ruin a trip more than food (or the lack of it!). To complicate our situation, all of us were vegetarians with yours truly being a rather fussy eater but Switzerland proved to a happy hunting ground. Even though the restaurants were a bit on the dearer side, we still went to bed each night with that reassuring feeling of having eaten well.
After breakfast at Interlaken, Shoba & I were tasked with the job of finding out how to get to Jungfraujoch, the highlight of our trip to Switzerland. Deeps & Prashant went away to get themselves a pair of sunglasses while Vaiju, Ranga & Aditi were still having a leisurely breakfast. We knew that it would cost us some money but what the Tourist Info office told us still made us reel. Even with our Swiss Pass, this trip would set us back well over a 100 francs per person, but after a quick discussion we all decided that we would put it down to incidental expenses and enjoy the trip. The alternative would have been a cheaper cable car up the Schilthorn, which just didn't have the same appeal.
To get to Jungfraujoch from Interlaken meant taking 3 trains. Our first train was from Interlaken Ost (East) to Lauterbrunnen, from where we were to take the mountain line via Wengen to Kleine Scheidegg to change to the final train to Jungfraujoch. Most of the gang & the luggage went by a taxi to Ost but Ranga and I had to walk - it was a nice pleasant walk through Interlaken which took about 15 minutes. At Interlaken Ost, the others had already purchased the relevant tickets and stowed away the bags in convenient luggage lockers so we were all set for our train journey.
As we waited at the Ost station, Aditi provided us with good entertainment with an impromptu song-and-dance sequence with Barbie Girl. At the start of the trip, Vaiju & Ranga had been a little sceptical of their ability to stick to our planned schedule because of Aditi. But right from the beginning Aditi started enjoying each day & each activity just as much as everyone else and also got along wonderfully with everyone. There was never a dull moment with her around. Given that we were all on holiday, Aditi's pace also ensured that we took a relaxed approach to the holiday rather than the typical rushing around from place to place that characterises most of our trips abroad.
Our trip to Lauterbrunnen & from there to Kleine Scheidegg took us through lush countryside initally before climbing up through Wengen's mountain pastures before breaking the treeline at Kleine Scheidegg. The views on both sides kept the cameras whirring all the way! Kleine Scheidegg at 2061 m is little more than a few buildings huddled together at a dramatic location at the foot of the north face of the Eiger. It is a small but busy terminus for trains from Lauterbrunnen and Grindelwald - all day, it is a hubbub of activity as tourists rush from one train to the other. From Kleine Scheidegg, the trains tunnels for most of the way through the Eiger emerging at a couple of intermediate indoor train stations from where large windows provide a taster of the views from the top.
The final stop of this tunneling adventure is the indoor station of Jungfraujoch which at 3454 m is the highest railway station in Europe. The station complex leads to a perennially snow covered plateau. There is also an Ice Palace - a hall of ice-sculptures that is popular with the tourists. The main draw is the Sphinx Terrace - an observation terrace & weather station at 3571 m offering panoramic & heart-thumping views towards Germany's Black Forest in one direction and the Italian Alps in the other. Directly below is also the vast Jungfraufirn glacier - it can be quite headspinning when you look down through the latticed floor of the observation platform!
After we got off the train, all of us got split up somehow. Deeps & Prashant went into the Ice Palace, Vaiju, Ranga & Aditi were in the main hall while Shoba & I headed out into the plateau. With clear blue skies above and snow all around us, the sun's glare would have been really painful without sunglasses. As was not surprising the plateau was chockfull of Indians. Young couples smartly dressed accompanied their parents in ill-fitting monkey caps, woollen sweaters & canvas shoes but nevertheless as excited as little children at seeing the snow, eager to have snowfights while ensuring that the cameras & camcorders captured every moment. We had mixed emotions witnessing the hustle & bustle of Indian life at what is intended to be a magical serene location! We savoured the moments and then went back to catch up with the others in the main hall. On the way, we stopped at the Ice Palace to view the sculptures - they were okay, just like any other ice palace though the location must surely have helped!
Unfortunately all was not well in the main hall. Deeps' visit to the claustrophobic Ice Palace had brought about a sudden bout of anxiety. I guess hunger also played it's part but the Indian restaurant was full with tourists & there weren't any free tables. Deeps was not feeling very comfortable so Prashant & Deeps decided to head down to Interlaken in the next train. The rest of us then decided to use the Indian wriggle technique to get seats in Bollywood, the Indian restaurant. The food was simple and limited in choice but the quantities were unlimited so we had a fantastic meal of simple hot rice & daal with a couple of sabzis. The place was full - the enterprising restaurant manager was constantly on his toes seating people, getting the food from the kitchen to the buffet tables, taking payments, etc.
After a good lunch, we then headed out to the Sphinx Terrace. This is accessed via a short lift ride that takes us 100 m to the observation platform at 3571 m (11715 feet). From here there are dramatic views on all sides. This is probably the topmost point in Europe that is so easily accessible.
On the way down, as we got off at Klein Scheidegg to change trains, we found Deeps & Prashant waiting at the station enjoying the views. Our trip back to Interlaken was via Grindelwald. It was a rather steep descent to Grindelwald via typical Swiss countryside. From Grindelwald we then took the train to Interlaken. After collecting our bags from the luggage locker and a quick coffee, we then took a train to our next destination - Lucerne.
We reached Lucerne rather late at 2030 and it was a short bus ride to our hotel, the Polish sounding Drei Kronige. It was a cornerhouse hotel in what seemed to be a typical residential part of town, set away from the main road. The rooms were nice and comfortable. Shoba wasn't feeling very well and Vaiju had to take care of Aditi, so the rest of us went downstairs to get some food & some takeaway. This part of town seemed to have closed down for the day and after an unsavoury attitude from the restaurant below the hotel, we then went out to see if there were any restaurants open. A 5 minute walk from our hotel brought us to the banks of the River Reuss which cuts through Lucerne. On our side was a nice cosy restaurant with tables laid out by the river bank, soft lights and a very welcoming atmosphere. Ranga suggested that Deeps & Prashant have dinner by the riverside to lift up Deeps from the morose mood she'd been since the afternoon trip. We then took away pizzas from another restaurant back to Ranga's room for a light dinner. Aditi had gone to sleep by the time we returned, so we sat up till midnight generally chatting away.
In the meantime Deeps & Prashant had had a nice dinner and went for a stroll along the riverside. The place was apparently very lively in the evening and there were a number of small cosy restaurants. Their walk took them past several small bridges across the river, each of which had been named after a local king with a brief history of his reign inscribed. They returned back to the hotel around midnight.